Pages

Showing posts with label Thesis. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thesis. Show all posts
Wednesday, 28 May 2014

Automatic Pneumatic Grinding Machine


AUTOMATIC PNEUMATIC GRINDING MACHINE
Selva Kumar
Kalasalingam University, Tamil Nadu, India
Email: selvaddsniper@gmail.com



INTRODUCTION
The pneumatic grinding is a metal grinding machine tool designed to cut/grind metal by applying pneumatic pressure. It is widely used in carding machine to grind wire.
Automatic Pneumatic Grinding Machine
The machine is exclusively intended for mass production and they represent the fastent and more efficient way to cut a metal. The slow speed operation is occurs in a grinding operation. This machine is a multipurpose machine.

Hacksaws are used to cut thin and soft metals. The grinding shaft is used to grinding operation by replacing the hacksaw frame. The operation of the unit is simplified to a few simple operations involving a cylinder block and piston arrangement.

There are numerous types of grinding machines in Engineering field, which are used to fulfil the requirements. We are interested to introduce pneumatic system in especially in grinding machine and also grinding operation.

The main function of Pneumatic grinding is to cut thin and soft metals by pneumatic power.

LITERATURE SURVEY

PNEUMATICS
The word ‘pneuma’ comes from Greek and means breather wind. The word pneumatics is the study of air movement and its phenomena is derived from the word pneuma. Today pneumatics is mainly understood to means the application of air as a working medium in industry especially the driving and controlling of machines and equipment.

Pneumatics has for some considerable time between used for carrying out the simplest mechanical tasks in more recent times has played a more important role in the development of pneumatic technology for automation.

Pneumatic systems operate on a supply of compressed air which must be made available in sufficient quantity and at a pressure to suit the capacity of the system. When the pneumatic system is being adopted for the first time, however it wills indeed the necessary to deal with the question of compressed air supply.

The key part of any facility for supply of compressed air is by means using reciprocating compressor. A compressor is a machine that takes in air, gas at a certain pressure and delivered the air at a high pressure.

Compressor capacity is the actual quantity of air compressed and delivered and the volume expressed is that of the air at intake conditions namely at atmosphere pressure and normal ambient temperature.

The compressibility of the air was first investigated by Robert Boyle in 1962 and that found that the product of pressure and volume of a particular quantity of gas.

The usual written as:

PV = C (or) PıVı = P2V2 

In this equation the pressure is the absolute pressured which for free is about 14.7 Psi and is of courage capable of maintaining a column of mercury, nearly 30 inches high in an ordinary barometer. Any gas can be used in pneumatic system but air is the mostly used system now a days.

SELECTION OF PNEUMATICS
Mechanization is broadly defined as the replacement of manual effort by mechanical power. Pneumatic is an attractive medium for low cost mechanization particularly for sequential (or) repetitive operations. Many factories and plants already have a compressed air system, which is capable of providing the power (or) energy requirements and the control system (although equally pneumatic control systems may be economic and can be advantageously applied to other forms of power).

The main advantage of an all pneumatic system are usually economic and simplicity the latter reducing maintenance to a low level. It can also have out standing advantages in terms of safety.

PRODUCTION OF COMPRESSED AIR

Pneumatic systems operate on a supply of compressed air, which must be made available. In sufficient quantity and at a pressure to suit the capacity of the system. When pneumatic system is being adopted for the first time, however it wills indeed the necessary to deal with the question of compressed air supply.

The key part of any facility for supply of compressed air is by means using reciprocating compressor. A compressor is a machine that takes in air, gas at a certain pressure and delivered the air at a high pressure.

Compressor capacity is the actual quantity of air compressed and delivered and the volume expressed is that of the air at intake conditions namely at atmosphere pressure and normal ambient temperature. Clean condition of the suction air is one of the factors, which decides the life of a compressor. Warm and moist suction air will result in increased precipitation of condense from the compressed air. Compressor may be classified in two general types.
  1. Positive displacement compressor.
  2. Turbo compressor
Positive displacement compressors are most frequently employed for compressed air plant and have proved highly successful and supply air for pneumatic control application.

The types of positive compressor
  1. Reciprocating type compressor
  2. Rotary type compressor
Turbo compressors are employed where large capacity of air required at low discharge pressures. They cannot attain pressure necessary for pneumatic control application unless built in multistage designs and are seldom encountered in pneumatic service.

RECIPROCATING COMPRESSORS
Built for either stationary (or) portable service the reciprocating compressor is by far the most common type. Reciprocating compressors lap be had is sizes from the smallest capacities to deliver more than 500 m³/min. In single stage compressor, the air pressure may be of 6 bar machines discharge of pressure is up to 15 bars. Discharge pressure in the range of 250 bars can be obtained with high pressure reciprocating compressors that of three & four stages.

Single stage and 1200 stage models are particularly suitable for pneumatic applications , with preference going to the two stage design as soon as the discharge pressure exceeds 6 bar , because it in capable of matching the performance of single stage machine at lower costs per driving powers in the range .

COMPONENTS AND DESCRIPTION

PNEUMATIC CONTROL COMPONENT

Pneumatic cylinder
An air cylinder is an operative device in which the state input energy of compressed air i.e. pneumatic power is converted in to mechanical output power, by reducing the pressure of the air to that of the atmosphere.

Single acting cylinder
Single acting cylinder is only capable of performing an operating medium in only one direction. Single acting cylinders equipped with one inlet for the operating air pressure, can be production in several fundamentally different designs.

Single cylinders develop power in one direction only. Therefore no heavy control equipment should be attached to them, which requires to be moved on the piston return stoke single action cylinder requires only about half the air volume consumed by a double acting for one operating cycle.

Double acting cylinders:
A double acting cylinder is employed in control systems with the full pneumatic cushioning and it is essential when the cylinder itself is required to retard heavy messes. This can only be done at the end positions of the piston stock. In all intermediate position a separate externally mounted cushioning derive most be provided with the damping feature.

The normal escape of air is out off by a cushioning piston before the end of the stock is required. As a result the sit in the cushioning chamber is again compressed since it cannot escape but slowly according to the setting made on reverses. The air freely enters the cylinder and the piston stokes in the other direction at full force and velocity.

CONTROL VALVE:
Various types of control valves are used to regulate, control and monitor the air energy for control of direction pressure, flow, etc.

Pneumatic energy is regulated and controlled by pneumatic valves. Functionally valves are divided into four major groups.
  • Direction Control
  • Flow Control
In our project electrically actuated solenoid operated 5/2 DC valves are used.

Solenoid is another name for an electromagnet. Direction control valves are very often actuated by electromagnets. An electromagnet is a temporary magnet. A magnetic force is developed in an electromagnet when electrical current passes through it and force drops down as soon as it is de energized.

This electromagnet is commonly termed as solenoid. The proper working of a solenoid operated valve depends on the reliability of the electromagnets.

It ensures
  • Quick and sure action
  • Long life.
  • Easy maintenance.
  • Less wastage of energy.
Solenoid Valve
The directional valve is one of the important parts of a pneumatic system. Commonly known as DCV, this valve is used to control the direction of air flow in the pneumatic system. The directional valve does this by changing the position of its internal movable parts.

This valve was selected for speedy operation and to reduce the manual effort and also for the modification of the machine into automatic machine by means of using a solenoid valve. A solenoid is an electrical device that converts electrical energy into straight line motion and force. These are also used to operate a mechanical operation which in turn operates the valve mechanism.

Solenoids may be push type or pull type. The push type solenoid is one in which the plunger is pushed when the solenoid is energized electrically. The pull type solenoid is one is which the plunger is pulled when the solenoid is energized.

The name of the parts of the solenoid should be learned so that they can be recognized when called upon to make repairs, to do service work or to install them.
Solenoid Valve
HOUSE AND FITTINGS:
It is provided for the passage of compressed air from the compressor outlet to the operating valve.

Two separate pipes also connect the operating valve with the working cylinder pressure drop through and air line depends on the flow rate, pipe diameter, pipe length and pipe geometry. It can be determined directly for straight pipes of any given length. A small chaining bore size can have marked effect on pressure drop, where as even doubling the pipe length, will only result in doubling the pressure drop.

Pressure drop through bends and fittings can only be determined by empirical tests, since it is specific to the internal geometry involved. Rigid pipes however are less manipulated through remain form of bends with arrangements increase and variable air have to flow and the flow itself may be of fluctuating or pulsating nature. In this case it is thus normally based on practical recommendation.

SEALS:
Seal is an important component of a pneumatic system and is used to prevent the air leakage through the joint.

This project passes the static seal which are used to prevent the leakage through the stationary surface.

Material of the seal is Teflon tape. Teflon has the following properties
  • Withstand the system pressure and temperature without any damage.
  • Resist the wear and abrasion.
  • Recover from deformation.
  • Resists the adverse effects such as deterioration and shrinking caused by the system air.
Seals are devices for closing gaps to prevent leakage or make pressure joints and also to prevent the entry of air and dirt from outside into the system. The material of seal must be compatible with the fluid medium. It is a circular ring made of synthetic rubber. It is used for providing tight sealing between the piston and the cylinder wall. It prevents air leakage from the top and bottom of the cylinder.

Seals for air cylinder and valves are not normally called upon to seal pressure higher than about 2 bars. Since the fluid to be seated is a gas, (in our case air) rubbing speeds tends to be high and the seal the seal may have to be operated under dry conditions with minimal lubrication.

CONTROL TIMER CIRCUIT:

Need for a Timer Circuit:
Main purpose to timer circuit is to actuate the solenoid valve at regular interval of time to achieve proper lubrication at the desired interval.

ELECTRONIC CONTROL TIMING UNIT:-

Here the 555 IC has been used as a multi vibrator. The output of IC 555 is fed to the input pin (pin no 14) of CD 4017 continues counting.

The output of the IC becomes available at pin Nos. 3, 2 and 4. The output pulse of any one of output pin triggers (Puts ON) the Triac and current starts flowing across the load connected. This process continues on other pins at different time intervals and the cycle continues. The frequency interval (Time) of the cycle can be adjusted by the pre-set look connected to pin 6 of 555 Timer IC. 
ELECTRONIC CONTROL TIMING UNIT
Automatic Grinding Machine
WORKING PRINCIPLE

PNEUMATIC CIRCUIT:
Pneumatic circuit
Since pneumatic circuit plays a vital role in this device, it is very necessary to explain the working of this circuit.

Initially starting with air compresses, its function is to compress air from a low inlet pressure (usually atmospheric) to a higher pressure level. This is an accomplished by reducing the volume of the air.

Air compressors are generally positive displacement units and are either of the reciprocating piston type or the rotary screw or rotary vane types. The air compressor used here is a typically small sized, two-stage compressor unit. It also consists of a compressed air tank, electric rotor and pulley drive, pressure controls and instruments for quick hook up and use. The compressor is driver by a 10HP motor and designed to operate in 145 – 175 PSI range. If the pressure exceeds the designed pressure of the receiver a release value provided releases the excesses air and thus stays a head of any hazards to take place.

The stored air from compressor is passed through an air fitter where the compressed air is filtered from the fine dust particles. However, before the suction of air into compressor a filter process take place, but not sufficient to operate in the circuit here the filter is used.

Then having a pressure regulator where the desired pressure to the operated is set. Here a variable pressure regulator is adopted.

Through a variety of direction control value are available, a hand operated solenoid Valve with control unit is applied.

The solenoid valve used here is 5 ports, 3 positions. There are two exhaust ports, two outlet ports and one inlet port. In two extreme positions only the directions can be changed while the Centro ore is a neutral position and no physical changes are incurred.

The 2 outlet ports are connected to an actuator (Cylinder). The pneumatic activates is a double acting, single rod cylinder. The cylinder output is coupled to further purpose. The piston end has an air horning effect to prevent sudden thrust at extreme ends.

PRINCIPLES OF WORKING
  • The compressed air from the compressor reaches the solenoid valve. The solenoid valve changes the direction of flow according to the signals from the timing device. 
  • The compressed air pass through the solenoid valve and it is admitted into the front end of the cylinder block. The air pushes the piston for the grinding stroke. At the end of the grinding stroke air from the solenoid valve reaches the rear end of the cylinder block. The pressure remains the same but the area is less due to the presence of piston rod. This exerts greater pressure on the piston, pushing it at a faster rate thus enabling faster return stroke. 
  • The weight attached at the end of the hacksaw frame gives constant loads which lower the hacksaw to enable continuous grinding of the work. 
  • The stroke length of the piston can be changed by making suitable adjustment in the timer. 
  • Grinding hacksaw frame is removed in the case of grinding operation. The above same procedure is occurring in the grinding operation.
APPLICATIONS

1. Agriculture:
  • Crop forming
  • Stock breeding
  • Animal food industries
  • Foresting
2. Utilities:
  • Power Station
  • Nuclear Engineering
  • Water Supply
3. Mining
4. Chemical Industry
5. Plastics and rubber industries
6. Stone, Ceramic and glass industries
7. Metal Industries:
  • Iron and Steel
  • Non-ferrous metals
  • Foundries
  • Scrap and recycled metals
8. Leather Industry
9. Textile Industry
10. Paper and Printing Industry
11. Grinding Industries

ADVANTAGES AND LIMITATIONS

ADVANTAGES:
  • There is no need of giving feed during every cut due to the presence of weight.
  • The grinding/grinding speed can be varied according to our needs by adjusting the timer.
  • It is portable
  • It does not have any Prime mover, like electric motor related to the unit.
  • As the air is freely available, we can utilize the air to cut the metal and hence it is economical.
  • Simple in construction than mechanical hacksaw and grinder
  • It is a compact one
  • Less Maintenance
LIMITATIONS
  • Only smaller size and soft metal can be cut
  • It is costlier than the mechanical hacksaw because of compressor unit.
  • Less efficiency when compressed to mechanical device.
  • Leakage of air affects the working of the unit.
COST ESTIMATION
Sl. No.

PARTS

Qty.

Cost

i.
Cylinder block (with piston)
1

ii.
Solenoid valve
1

iii.
Machine vice
1

iv.
Timing device
1

v.
Flexible hoses
-

vi.
Hack Saw frame
1

vii.
Bolts & Nuts
-

viii.
PU Connectors
-

ix.
Flow Control Valve
1

x
Grinding Shaft
1


TOTAL


 
LABOUR COST
LATHE, DRILLING, WELDING, GRINDING, POWER HACKSAW, GAS GRINDING:
Cost =

OVERHEAD CHARGES

The overhead charges are arrived by “Manufacturing cost”

Manufacturing Cost = Material Cost + Labour cost

Overhead Charges = 20% of the manufacturing cost

TOTAL COST
Total cost = Material Cost + Labour cost + Overhead Charges

Total cost for this project =
Wednesday, 30 April 2014

Developing the Conceptual Analysis for Fabric Sourcing Properly on the Way of Garments Manufacturing


Developing the Conceptual Analysis for Fabric Sourcing Properly on the Way of Garments Manufacturing
Mohammad Shahadat Hossain
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering (Major on Apparel Manufacturing)
Daffodil International University, Bangladesh
Email: shahadat1859@yahoo.com





Abstract:
We must need fabric to manufacture garments. Fabric & it’s quality is the first concern for garments trade. Fabric quality is depending on yarn quality, color, finish & smooth processing stage for knitting/weaving, dyeing, finishing etc. Business profitability is deeply involved with fabric as it is major portion of Garments. So the total sourcing of Fabric is including not only for technical concern but also for business profitability.

Introduction:
Fabric is the core part of garments. Quality of Garment is mostly dependent on fabric quality. So effective garments production is depending on right fabric collection. For garments manufacturing, we are sourcing fabric locally or globally. We need to be technically concerned from the customer’s point of view as well as we need to be more thankful & business minded for Fabric sourcing. We are sourcing Woven fabric & Knit fabric for manufacturing of Woven or Knit Garments. In this article, I am trying here to depict total aspect either for Woven Fabric/Knit fabric Sourcing.

Specification:
To specify particular fabric, specification is must because if we don’t specify about fabric while giving order to supplier, we can’t get proper/expected fabric. If we find certain particulars incorrect & complain to supplier, they have the right to say that the things we complain about were understood & accepted by us. Then there will be no point to claim or argue since no relevant specifications were detailed in the contract. In order to avoid this kind of detrimental ambiguity, when we order fabrics, we should spell out our specifications as much as possible.

The considering point which should be included:
  1. Fabric type.
  2. Fabric composition
  3. Fabric construction
  4. Yarn count of warp & weft for woven, knitting yarn count for Knit fabric.
  5. What kind of yarn (OE.,ring spun, a grade, fully combed, semi combed or carded)
  6. GSM of fabric or oz/sq yard for denim fabric
  7. Width of fabric for woven & machine dia for knit fabric.
  8. What types of dye or what color fastness standards we need.
  9. Finish( consider that what you need as per suitability of your fabric)
Fabric testing:
Fabric should be tested on testing lab to evaluate the characteristics, we need. For testing, you must maintain standard given by the worldwide standardization body. Recognized testing authority are SGS, ITS, Bureau Veritas etc. Fabric can be tested on factory’s own lab depending on it’s availability. You have to ask the supplier about this matter. Necessary testing which are commonly needed on fabric stage is given below with their standard.
Fabric testing
Base test/ physical test:
These tests are used related to fabric base/ physical appearance

1. Composition test
It’s defining fibre content/types of fibre & their percentage of content used on respective fabric.i.e.; 100% Cotton, 85% Cotton 25% polyester etc.

2. Fabric weight (GSM):
Weight or heaviness/lightness of fabric is determined by GSM. It’s calculated by using GSM cutter & weight balance. GSM is variable depending on fibre content, structure of fabric & finish of fabric.

3. Strength test
  • Bursting strength for knit: This test is done to evaluate the strength of knit fabric. The standard result should be 250 kpa/350 kpa & above. Test method: BS EN ISO13938-2:1999
  • Tensile strength for woven: This test is done to evaluate the strength of woven fabric. The standard result should be 12 kg to 20 kg depending on gsm i.e; 12kg for less than 120 gsm, 15 kg for greater than 120 gsm but less than 250 gsm, 20 kg for greater than 250 gsm. Test method: BS EN ISO13934-2:1999
  • Tearing strength for woven: This test is done to evaluate the strength of woven fabric.The standard result should be 800 g to 1.5 kg depending on gsm i.e.; 800g for less than 120 gsm, 1 kg for greater than 120 gsm but less than 250 gsm, 1.5 kg for greater than 250 gsm. Test Method: BS EN ISO: 13937-1:2000
4. Shrinkage test/ Dimensional stability:
This is the test for evaluation of shrinkage after wash for what this test is known as stability to washing. For weft knitted fabric, standard result should be +7% to -7% (+2% maximum on interlock or rib) & for warp knit fabric -5% maximum. For woven fabric +1% to -3% maximum should be the standard value. Test method: BS EN ISO6330:2001 

5. Spirality test only for single jersey:
This test is done only for single jersey fabric & standard result should be 5%. Test method: ISO163222-2:2005

6. Elastic Recovery test:
This test is done only on elastane contained fabric.

7. Martindale Abrasion resistance test:
This test is done on Woven or Knit fabric to measure resistant property against abrasion.

8. Martindale Pilling resistance test

Bulk test: 
  1. Color fastness test to Wash
  2. Color fastness test to Water
  3. Color fastness test to Rubbing/ Crocking
  4. Color fastness test to Light
Formaldehyde test:
This test is uncommon. It can be on base test or on bulk test.

Fabric color:
Fabric color is very sensitive & vital issue for sourcing fabric. When you want to source fabric, you should have proper idea of fabric color & strategy to get properly colored fabric. At first you have to submit physical swatch of your required fabric or pantone number to supplier/respective dyeing manager. At that time, you should also mention quantity of fabric, you need. Then they will give you the lab dip according to your color reference. Lab dip should be of three option i.e.; option A, option B & option C. Then dyeing section dye fabric for color approval of bulk production. For shade matching, Data color machine or Spectrophotometer should be used. Compatibility of fiber & dyes, we should have the knowledge about which dye is suitable for what fabric:
           Fiber
                                               Suitable dyes
Cotton/cellulosic fiber
Direct, Reactive, Vat, Sulpher, Azoic, Mordant , Pigment & Mineral dye
Wool,silk/protein fiber
Acid dye, Reactive dye, Mordant dye
Jute
Basic dye
Nylon
Acid dye, Disperse dye
Acrylic
Basic dye, Disperse dye
Acetate, Polyester
Disperse dye
 
We should have the knowledge about key properties of dyes:
       Dyes
                                                           Key properties
Reactive dye
  • Fastness properties for wash, light, rubbing, perspiration are usually good.
  • All shade is found, dyeing method is easy & price is cheaper.
  • Water soluble dye & high electrolyte is necessary for dyeing with reactive dye.
Direct dye
  • Easily dissolved in water, easily diffusible into fiber & have strong affinity to cellulosic fiber.
  • Various shades are found & comparatively cheaper.
  • It has moderate light fastness property but wash fastness is not so good (2-3).
Acid dye
  • Easily soluble in water & have direct affinity towards protein fiber.
  • Much bright shade is found.
  • Wet fastness is very good but light fastness is moderate.
Vat dye
  • Water insoluble dyes & application process is difficult.
  • Dull shade is found.
  • Color fastness property is very good except rubbing fastness which is not so good.
  • More expensive dyes.
Basic dye
  • Soluble cationic dye which has affinity towards anionic substrate i.e; protein fiber.
  • Exhibit an unlimited shade range with high tinctorial strength, brightness & many colors are having fluorescent characteristics.
  • The water solubility is very good in presence of glacial acetic acid but leveling power is poor.
  • Light fastness is poor to moderate but wet fastness is good.
Disperse dye
  • Disperse dyes are molecularly dispersed.
  • Very less soluble in water which makes fine dispersion.
  • Light fastness is fair to good (4-5).
  • Washing fastness is moderate to good (3-4).
Sulpher dye
  • Contain sulpher linkage within their molecule.
  • Water insoluble dyes.
  • Heat reduction & oxidation of the development of the dye.
  • Wash fastness is excellent, wet fastness is good & light fastness is satisfactory.
 
Dyes are known by their commercial/brand name. The brand/commercial name, manufacturer & manufacturing country of some dyes are given below:

Brand Name
Manufacturer
Basic dye
Astrazon
Bayer (Germany)
Basacryl
BASF (Germany)
Sevron
DU Pont
Maxilan
Ciba (Switzerland)
Acid dye
Sandolan E, N, D, Fast, P,MF
Clariant
AcidolK,M, Palatine Fast
BASF
Telon
Dystar
Novamina
ACNA (Italy)
Polar
Ciba (Switzerland)
Vat dye
Caledon
ICI (U.K)
Cibanone
Ciba-Geigy (Switzerland)
Indanthren
BASF, Bayer (Germany)
Sandothrene
Clariant
Calcoloid
USA
Direct dye
Benzo, Benzoform, Benzamine, Sirius, Sirius supra
F. Bayer (Germany)
Cuprantine, Diphenyl, Solophenyl
Ciba-Geigy (Switzerland)
Cholorazo, Durazol
I.C.I (U.K)
Benzanil
Yorkshire (U.K)
Azoform, Pyrazol, thiazol, solar
Sandoz AG (Switzerland)
Reactive dye
Procion
I.C.I (U.K)
Ciba cron
Ciba (Switzerland)
Remazol
Hoechst (Germany)
Levafix
Bayer (Germany)
Reactone
Geigy (Switzerland)
Primazine
BASF (Germany)
 
Fabric Finishes:
Grey fabric need to be brought in touch of several finish to use. These finishes can give better appearance & performance as well as enhance structural properties of fabric. The whole cycle of finishing consists of mechanical and chemical processes, which are used depending on the kinds and end uses of the fabric. Mechanical processes include drying, calendaring, embossing, sueding, raisingetc and chemical processes include in the application of special substances on the fabric, impregnation with size, starch, dextrin and other polymeric substances. There is a wide range of finish we use on fabrics:
  1. Easy care
  2. Non iron
  3. Peach
  4. Regular
  5. Teflon
  6. Water repellent
  7. Soil release
  8. Active cleaning
  9. Resin finish
  10. Lubricant finish
Consciousness to get right product at right time:
  • At first we should determine our requirement of fabric, which we need & then check with several suppliers for development. 
  • Evaluate the developed fabric from all aspect of quality & select developed sample which is meeting requirement.
  • Asked offered price from suppliers from which you get suitable sample as per your requirement. Evaluate offered price by the mind of business, i.e.; should be concerned about the terms of pricing like: FOB, C&F, Ex-fty etc. 
  • Also need to evaluate lead time of getting the fabric & origin of suppliers as transportation & C&F purpose is variable from place to place.
  • Then you can place order with your suitable one & closely follow up to get the fabric at right time. 
  • Followup process is including taking delivery confirmation both for sample & bulk, payment proceeding, reminding timely to get updated, advising ship mode & forwarder, taking necessary docs to release the goods & arrange C&F to release the goods.
Strategy to select right fabric:
As a buyer or Merchandiser, we should be very careful & practical oriented on every stage up to get the bulk fabric. At first we have to give clear specification to supplier, then ask them & follow up regularly to give you the sample/fabric swatch. Evaluate the quality & if it is approved, then negotiate about the price. You can choose with two, three or more suppliers at a time to get better feedback. We should have the proper knowledge about the construction, gsm & count of the fabric:

Relation between count & gsm of knit fabric:
  • Single jersey  : Yarn count= -.141 X Gsm+50.22
  • Single pique/lacoste : Yarn count= -.146 X Gsm+57.16
  • Double lacoste  : Yarn count= -.167 X Gsm+64.36
  • 1X1 Rib  : Yarn count= -.123 X Gsm+54.57
  • Lycra 1X1 Rib  : Yarn count= -.119 X Gsm+59.12
  • Interlock  : yarn Count= -.206 X Gsm+80.56
We can also follow the following chart for this purpose:
100%Cotton
                                                     Finished GSM
Yarn Count
S/j
Pique
Interlock
D/N
1X1 Rib
2X2 Rib
20/s
195-230
240-270
N/A
N/A
270-300
280-320
24/s
180-190
220-235
N/A
N/A
240-260
250-270
26/s
160-180
200-220
300-330
300-330
210-230
220-240
30/s
130-150
170-185
250-290
250-290
180-200
190-210
34/s
115-125
150-170
220-240
220-240
165-175
170-180
40/s
N/A
140-150
190-210
190-210
N/A
N/A
46/s
N/A
N/A
175-185
175-185
N/A
N/A
 
For woven fabric, by using the following formula we can get the clear concept about gsm & yarn count:

Woven fabric construction: EPI XPPI/Warp Count X Weft Count

GSM= [{EPI/ (Warp count/10)} + {PPI/ (Weft Count/10)}]/13 X33.901

For Example:
Fabric construction: 108x58/20x20
GSM= [{108/ (20/10)} + {58/ (20/10)}]/13 X33.901
        =216.44

Conclusion:
Fabric Sourcing is a vital part of Garments merchandising as well as Manufacturing of garments. I am trying here to express a view to source fabric properly. I think, we should be more proactive to use our technical view for sourcing of fabric. From my belief, we will increase higher profitability as well as best quality by concentrating on proper fabric sourcing.

References:
  1. How to be a smarter Garments Merchandiser by Conway Liu
  2. Dyeing & Chemical Technology by E.R Trotman
  3. Textile testing by J.E booth
  4. Knitting Technology by Spencer
  5. Project work on Interstoff Apparels Ltd, Chandura, Gazipur, Bangladesh & Renaissance Sourcing Ltd, Gulshan-2, Dhaka-1212, Bangladesh